Monks and Mindfulness: Vipassana Meditation Retreat in Thailand

“To see things as they really are.”

Vipssana Meditation

I’m absolutely filthy. There is no way I should be allowed to go pray while looking like this.

I have on a dirt-stained elephant T-shirt and beat-up backpack as I stumble up to a Mcdonalds. I’m looking for someone, but I’m not sure who exactly. It will be obvious once I see him, because I can easily assume that he is bald with no eyebrows and wearing an orange dress. 

A monk. 

Yep, that’s him. 

Chilling at McDonalds. 

It’s a strange sight to see cuz it feels wrong for monks to be hanging around hamburgers, but once he has spotted me he stands up and escorts me to a car without speaking a word. 

“Weird…” I thought. I guess monks around here hang around the local McDonalds. And know how to drive. Usually the monks in my neighborhood of the Bangkok suburbs are just out and about hitch-hiking and collecting donations.

Let’s just say I wasn’t expecting to be here. But one thing led to another and now I’m on my way to live with monks in a temple to learn the ancient form of meditation believed to have been practiced by Buddha himself. 

Vipassana Meditation.

What is Vipassana Meditation?

Before you understand Vipassana, you need to understand the four practiced forms of meditation.

• Anapana – Mindfulness of breathing
• Metta – Loving kindness
• Samatha – Tranquility
• Vipassana – Insight

The most popular form of meditation that you are probably familiar with is Samatha, which involves sitting still and focusing on a single object- aka your “happy place.” Unlike other meditations that focus on this happy place, Vipassana is about observing rather than creating. The goal is to clearly see  the reality of things inside and around you. It tackles truths everyone faces such as impermanence, egolessness, and unsatisfactoriness. 

Because everything we experience is impermanent, we can teach ourselves to accept happiness, despite things always changing. In simplest terms, Vipassana is merely observation. 

My decision to enter this course was brought upon me by random opportunity, and other personal reasons. However, I do not recommend this. You should always be prepared prior to joining any type of meditation retreat. 

Regardless, I consider myself very self-aware. I already understood my struggles going into the retreat. Like many others, I struggle with negative recurring thoughts. I often find myself upset about the same topics over and over. When we think a certain thought often enough, it creates a habit. We are sending a message to the brain that it’s okay to think about this upsetting thought whenever the brain wants. 

This is the root of suffering within the mind. To end suffering, the goal is to stop it where it begins. Vipassana meditation teaches us how to observe things for as they really are, and then most importantly- let it pass.

Preparing for the Retreat

Choosing a Temple

Thankfully, I was living in the best country in the world for practicing buddhist style meditation: Thailand (…at the time of attending the retreat. I am now a full-time nomad while writing this post). From word of mouth, I had heard about temple retreats in Northern Thailand, near Chiang Mai, that would accept foreigners to stay and practice meditation… 

And even more important than that: they also accept women. The gender gap is an issue when dealing with things in pretty much any religion around the world. 

There are a few temples with websites that you can browse through as far as options. Keep in mind that every temple has different rules and practices meditations differently. 

A few temple options to consider:

Doi Suthep Vipassana Meditation Center

Pa Pae Meditation Retreat

Wat Sopharam Vipassana Meditation Center

Wat Ram Poeng and Vipassana Meditation Retreat

I stayed at the Wat Sopharam Vipassana Meditation Center. As with most temples, there is an online application prior to arrival- however, they will accept you even if you arrive unannounced, as long as they have a bed available. The application is just general information such as personal info, emergency contacts, and your reasons for wanting to join the retreat. 

Wat Sopharam is around one hour outside the Chiang Mai city center, and they have clear instructions on how to get to the temple on their website. They also have a WhatsApp number so you can call or message the temple directly about any questions/ concerns you have.

Packing for a Retreat

You will need to be prepared by packing accordingly. Perfumes and scents are prohibited, as well as make up. And obviously, you need to dress modestly by wearing pants and loose T-shirts. Form-fitting or revealing clothing is prohibited, as well as shorts or tank tops of any kind. Generally, it is required to wear all white at Vipassana retreats, but this was not a requirement at Wat Sopharam. They do, however, have white linens that you can rent/ buy for your stay there.

Mental Preparation

As far as mental preparation, do things to remove stressors in your life prior to arrival so that you can fully immerse yourself in the experience. These are tasks such as paying your bills, finishing any appointments, and setting off to the retreat on good terms with everyone in your life. Vipassana is already difficult enough, and you should remove any preventable stresses before joining.

Arrival (My story of how I ended up at a Vipassana Meditation Center)

I’ll admit, the way I joined the facility is pretty bizarre and definitely not recommended. It started over a year prior, in a different country.

I was wandering around in Malaysia a few weeks before I had to go report to my job in Thailand. I hitchhiked onto Penang Island via a fish truck, and met a West Londoner named Rahul at an Indian-Malay restaurant. Rafi for short. We hit it off as best friends that night, exchanged contact information, and I told him to message me if he ever found himself in Thailand.

That day came over a year later when Rafi messaged me one day saying he was in Cambodia about to cross the border into Thailand, and that we should meet up at a vegetarian restaurant by Khao San Road. 

It was like no time had passed, and we were chatting away like long-lost childhood friends. He shared his troubles from over the past year, and I shared mine.

“You know, my dad meditates, like, two hours a day babes. We should for reals try it.” Rafi tells me. 

“What do you mean?” I asked.

“Do you know of any meditation centers around here?”

Yeah, sure I do. Approximately 16 hours by train away, but why the **** not. 

I was going through my own crap and had quit my teaching job two weeks prior, so you could consider my schedule pretty much completely available. 

No harm in running off with someone I had only met once, over a year prior. 

Before I knew it, I was stuffing my backpack with flowy pants and in a third-class seat on a train up to the north. 

Which brings us to the present moment of walking up to a McDonalds and locating the head Ajarn, Puttar. Usually, retreat visitors are expected to find their own way to the retreat center, but we had called the temple and gotten lucky that day because some of the monks were on an outing in Chiang Mai to run errands. 

We were brought to the temple, where we surrendered our passports and were introduced to the temple rules. Well, Rafi surrendered his passport. I didn’t have a passport at this time. Thai Post had lost my old and new passport in the mail two months prior, so you could pretty much consider me a hot mess. 

The Eight Precepts of Buddhism

There are eight precepts which you must abide by during your stay at any Vipassana meditation center. The eight precepts are a list of precepts that Buddhists follow for special holidays or religious festivals.

1. I undertake the precept to refrain from DESTROYING LIVING CREATURES.

2. I undertake the precept to refrain from TAKING THAT WHICH IS NOT GIVEN.

3. I undertake the precept to refrain from SEXUAL MISCONDUCT.

4. I undertake the precept to refrain from DISHONESTY, SLANDERING, HARSH LANGUAGE.

5. I undertake the precept to refrain from INTOXICATING DRINKS AND DRUGS which lead to carelessness.

6. I undertake the precept to refrain from EATING AT THE FORBIDDEN TIME (after noon).

7. I undertake the precept to refrain from dancing, singing, music, going to see entertainments, wearing garlands, using perfumes, and beautifying the body with cosmetics.

8. I undertake the precept to refrain from LYING ON A HIGH OR LUXURIOUS SLEEPING PLACE.

I do want to make a note that you do not need to be Buddhist to participate in Vipassana Meditation, nor is anyone trying to convert you to Buddhism. Buddhism just so happens to be the primary religion that hosts Vipassana meditation.

Most retreats also usually include a rule about silence, where you must not speak or gesture to other meditators during your time at the retreat. However, Wat Sopharam is a bit “less strict” than other temples. This is because they want to make the experience more applicable to the outside world, rather than coming into the retreat and living a completely unattainable way of life and then never doing it again. It is not a requirement to not speak, but meditators typically refrain from speaking unless necessary anyways.

Daily Routine

The wake-up bell rings at 4:45am. I’ve never been up this early in my life. At 5am, the morning chants begin with all of the monks. This is technically not a prayer, and Buddhism is unique and uses chants as a time to reflect, re-memorize, or learn philosophies.

At 6:30am, the young monks at the temple make their way around the neighborhoods to collect alms. This temple has many children monks. This is because they have been rescued from a bad homelife situation and brought to the temple to be given a chance at life so they can learn religion and education. All of the monks are very sweet and gentle souls. I enjoyed accompanying them on their morning walks. It’s a humbling and peaceful way to start off the day. 

7:15-8:15 am is breakfast. All of the food served is vegetarian and includes simple ingredients such as rice, water spinach, and cut up fruits. 

After breakfast is a daily dhamma class with Ajarn Puttar and German monk Janice. Here, they taught us many foundations for meditating, such as the four foundations of mindfulness. They also explained what we can expect from practicing Vipassana in case we are ever feeling confused about the stages of what is happening. The dhamma class is followed by an opportunity for one-on-one interviews with Ajarn Puttar so he can monitor your progress. He will also tell you what he has observed about you, which proved to be very interesting.

Group meditation is 10-11 am, followed by lunch. This will be your last meal of the day because the rest of the day is spent fasting with the exception of water. After lunch is another group meditation, followed by a few hours of meditation on your own wherever you choose to meditate. Everyone gathers together again at 6pm for evening chants with all of the monks, before retiring to bed. 

As you can see, the retreat is very meditation heavy. If you think this retreat will be easy, don’t be fooled. It’s intense, and arguably the hardest thing I’ve done. 

The Meditation Practice Styles- Sitting and Walking

At Wat Sopharam we use two methods of meditation style to practice Vipassana: Sitting and walking meditation. 

Most of us are already familiar with sitting meditation, as it is the most popular and recognized way to meditate. But this was my first-time experiencing walking meditation. To further explain the two styles:

Sitting Meditation

Sitting meditation is the most famous form of meditation, as it is the most recognized form of meditation symbolically. Sitting with your legs crossed and back straight, in an upright position, allows for relaxing meditation in which the mediator can self-actualize (realize their potential). The upright position helps the user to stay present, but also process information and thoughts.

Walking Meditation

Walking meditation, also known as Kinhin, is a form of mindful walking. The main goal is to teach the mind to stop accepting distractions by focusing on the mind, rather than all the distractions of the body that come as a result of movement. At the same time, it teaches one to be aware of one’s own body and its movements. 

My Experience at the Vipassana Meditation Retreat

I loved my Vipassana meditation experience so much that I plan to go back to another one this year. I feel like I have unfinished business with Vipassana. 

It’s difficult to even find where to begin. Upon arrival, the whole temple compound is like a loving commune of sorts. Many of the monks are children who came from troubled homes, but now live in the temple where they are taken care of and learn about Buddha. There were many animals who wander freely throughout the large temple property such as geese, ducks, cattle, dogs, chickens, and cats. All of the animals are well loved and taken care of, taking regular trips to the vet.

The cats became a source of spiritual energy during my time at the temple. If you know me, you know I love cats. Upon being issued my bedroom (everyone has their own small bedroom to help maintain thoughts. This is standard for Vipassana retreats.), I noticed a cat vaguely hanging around the area. I thought he might enjoy the fan in my room, so I left the door cracked so that he could come inside if he felt like it. 

I woke up in the middle of the night to four cats in the bed with me: One cat at my feet, the other at my side, a small one on my pillow, and another curled up on my stomach. I was surprised, but undisputedly accepted the situation. There is a certain peace and spiritual energy that comes from having cats around, so I never shut my bedroom door again. 

The first morning was difficult and the temple bells were not loud enough to wake me up. I only woke up because one of my snaggletooth cats started a fight. I put on my white linens and mindfully walked to the temple. There is no point in rushing anything here.

The morning chants were beautiful. The monks recited prayers in Thai as the sun began to rise, and I did my best to keep up (by reading the english words that were written to mimic the sounds of Thai language). Soon after, I went around collecting alms with the young monks. We walked the surrounding area silently, and I watched as they prayed over townspeople.

We returned to the temple for breakfast. Fasting most of the day, I taught myself to eat every meal slowly and mindfully, savoring every bite. This food is what would have to fuel me through these hot Thailand summer days. After breakfast I joined the group for the dhamma class, which I found to be the most beneficial. The head Ajarn Puttar or the German lady-monk Janice would host a lesson (in English) to help us retreat-goers understand more about the meditation that we were learning. After the group class, we would have a one-on-one meeting with Puttar and Janice to update them on how our meditations were going.

They are very observant over all of the retreat attendees, carefully observing the way we move, behave, and react to things. The feedback they gave me was very interesting in understanding myself because it comes from a complete third-party perspective. They have nothing to lose or gain from what they tell me. 

They noted a few interesting thoughts about me. 

There are four foundations of mindfulness in buddhism. 

The way it works, most people are already one of the boxes, and they are trying to learn the other three. The average person would fall into the mindfulness of feelings category, which means they are ruled by their mental states such as emotions. Ajarn Puttar observed from watching me that I likely function a bit differently than most people. I am more likely ruled by mindfulness of the mind, which means I am ruled primarily by my primary senses. 

Ajarn Puttar and Janice also observed other things about me, which were very accurate, but they should have had no way of knowing. It’s for me to ponder, and not for the world to dissect, so I will not share it here. But it is definitely mind-boggling. 

Most of my days were spent alone, meditating outside somewhere by the river. It was tranquil and beautiful, and looking back now it almost feels like a fever dream. From inside the compound, it was hard to imagine there was still a world and people existing on the outside… commuting to jobs, waiting in queues, going on dates, and living their fast-paced lives.

At the retreat, it’s obviously nothing like real life. But it’s a refreshing breath of fresh air and it gives us a chance to train our minds before returning to the real world. Going to retreats like this where you are taken out of society is such a rare opportunity to be able to experience real peace.

The days felt very long because we primarily meditated all day. The early stages of meditation made me very sleepy because our minds are trained to be bored when doing nothing, so I would fall asleep in the warm grass outside. Sometimes a gray cat that never slept with me would run over crying and wake me up. I would then resume meditation.

Once your mind gets used to the meditation though and you start to learn how to let distractions pass, comes the hardest of all: You have to face suffering. I learned how to clear out all of the distractions of the body and senses, but then I would be left with all of my previously suppressed thoughts. And there is no way around them. Only once you have faced suffering are you able to manage it. When people say “the only way out is through,” it’s true. For me, these thoughts of suffering started on day 4. Although painful, this experience taught me how to accept my pain and start to move past it. 

I’m not healed and I’m not a better person now then I was before the retreat. But I am much more grounded. And I know how to handle my thoughts and feelings. I feel much more mindful and appreciative of blessings all around me as a result. Nothing is taken for granted anymore, everything I get to experience and observe is a gift.

Now, don’t expect to leave the retreat healed of all of your traumas. Although that would be incredible, that is not the case. The retreats merely give you a foundation to build off of to help manage your thoughts and experiences in society. If you ever find yourself in Thailand or around a Vipassana meditation center, please consider joining. But only if you are willing and ready to put in the effort required. 

Living at the temple with real monks in Northern Thailand practicing Vipassana meditation is something that I will never forget. Thank you, Rafi, for accompanying me, and to the children monks for inspiring me. And thank you to myself for opening my heart to receiving these blessings. 

Final Thoughts

In the end, my journey at Wat Sopharam was transformative in ways I hadn’t anticipated. The serene environment, the wisdom of Ajarn Puttar and Janice, the company of the young monks, and even the comforting presence of the cats all contributed to a profound spiritual experience. While Vipassana meditation isn’t a magic cure-all, it provided me with valuable tools to navigate my thoughts and emotions more effectively. The retreat offered a rare opportunity to step away from the chaos of everyday life and delve deep into self-reflection.

As I left the temple, I carried with me not just memories, but a newfound sense of mindfulness and appreciation for life’s simple moments. For those considering a Vipassana retreat, remember that it’s challenging, but the rewards can be immeasurable. Whether you’re seeking spiritual growth, mental clarity, or simply a unique cultural experience, a Vipassana retreat in Thailand might just be the transformative journey you never knew you needed.

Subscribe for Email Updates Whenever I Post!