Mountains and Sea: The Indigenous People of Hualien (w/ Maps&Activities)
“Eat some fish soup. Do you want to sing some Taylor Swift? I think we have some of that saved on the karaoke machine.”
“Yeah, I’ll sing. Can you put on You Belong With Me? But let me finish this cup of kaoliang (Taiwanese vodka) first,” I replied.
It was the last day of the Cilo ‘Ohay tribe’s homecoming festival in Hualien, Taiwan, so everyone was eating fish soup and drinking beer mixed with vodka to conclude the annual ceremony.
With the karaoke microphone in hand, it was apparent to me that this was a modern version of once traditional events. As urbanization continues to grip Taiwan, it also takes hold of its indigenous communities.
I spent a few weeks submerged by nature in Taiwan’s beautiful county of Hualien. Going from Taipei to Hualien, the culture of Taiwan’s fading indigenous tribal lifestyle became apparent.
Hualien County is still quite secluded due to its steep, mountainous barrier along Taiwan’s east coast. But, in many ways, this dramatic landscaping has actually been positive. It has helped to preserve the Indigenous communities and their culture throughout Hualien, a luxury that cannot be said the same for with many other Taiwanese tribes.
Exploring the indigenous culture of Taiwan was a very important aspect of my travels here. To truly understand the essence of historical Hualien and the root of Taiwan’s culture as a whole, you must experience the indigenous people of Hualien and their unique, long-established lifestyle.
*This post may contain affiliate links. Purchasing through my link has zero extra cost for you, but it helps me earn a small commission to keep traveling! *
Table of Contents
Historical Context and Statistics
Present day, only 2-5% of Taiwan’s population are Aboriginal people, while the remaining estimated 95% are Han Chinese. The overwhelming influx of ethnic Han can be accredited to two prominent historical migrations—the 1600s during the Qing dynasty and the 1940s at the end of the Chinese Civil War, when many soldiers and their families fled China. The remaining small percentages of the indigenous communities are scattered throughout Taiwan, now primarily in the country’s large cities, where the majority of job opportunities are available.
However, Hualien is a unique location because many aboriginal communities remain despite citification. During my three weeks in Hualien, I sought out experiences with the Amis people to learn their way of life—and accidentally stumbled across another Indigenous community while exploring Taiwan’s largest county.
Amis People Harvest Festival
I was lucky enough to spend all of August in Hualien, the same time as the Amis people’s Harvest Festival. The historic purpose of the festival is to pray to the gods to bless the harvested crops and wish for a successful grain harvest in the following months.
The Amis people, also called “Pangcah,” in the northern region of Hualien, are a native people group in Taiwan, making up around 37% of the indigenous population. They are scattered throughout the Huadong Valley in east Taiwan, the coastal valley that makes up the space between the mountains and the sea.
My Modern Harvest Festival Experience
For this year’s Harvest Celebration, I joined a few foreign and Taiwanese friends to participate in the celebrations organized by Hualien County and the Amis people. We caught the bus at the Hualien bus station and rode down the coast to Shitiping, where we joined the Amis people for their art festival for our first stop.
Everything at the art festival was made from scratch, boasting impressive skill using natural resources and craftsmanship. Of course, the festival featured a traditional-style cottage that would have been historically lived in, as well as millet, the wine of the aboriginal people. The Amis children danced and played while heavily tattooed men and women worked on cooking and other sustainable projects.
While there, I took the opportunity to go on a short walk along the Shitiping coast. Shitiping is a massive coastal terrace with large rock platforms, famous for its biodiversity.
We climbed to the top of the terrace to take in the views of the mountains and sea, some of the best in Taiwan.
Afterwards, we went to the New Changhong Bridge to go rafting. We all stuffed ourselves into inflatable boats with motors and took off upstream to observe the massive natural marble rocks throughout the water and shoreline. The boats were driven by Amis men, who jumped from boat to boat and slid around with the ease of skill and muscle memory.
While on the boat, it began to rain, so we cut the ride early to attend the Aboriginal night market festival. The night market was a feast of delicious Taiwanese foods, such as millet wine cocktails, pork sausages, grilled squid, fried tofu, seaweed salad, and pork cutlets to name a few. All of the stands were cooked and run by the indigenous people of Hualien. As the sun fell over the horizon, the true celebrations began and many small local bands of Amis people began to play music.
To round up the night, guest performers 老王樂隊 put on a rare show for the small crowd at the market. The direct translation of the name is “The Old Wang Band, which in Chinese is slang for the man next door whose wife has an affair. The chosen English name of the band is “Your Woman Sleep With Others,” famous nationally in Taiwan for their music slamming the Taiwanese educational system and CRAM schools.
This is obviously quite a modern take on the ancient Harvest Festival. However, with modern times progressing, the Amis people understand that this is their way to connect with the Hualien community and unite—by keeping some traditional traditions and adding new modern activities, creating a harmonious blend of the old and the new.
I had a wonderful time; everyone was very kind and excited to have a few foreigners visit the festival and show interest in their culture. They encouraged me to hurry back to Taiwan next year so I can join them again- and I may just have to.
Experiencing the local traditions and foods was indeed a gift. The Amis people keep many ancient practices alive, such as arrow hunting and other crafts, so the skills are never forgotten over time. Many of the vegetables and spices used by the Amis people are not common ingredients in Taiwan, so it was a unique gift to have the opportunity to try aboriginal foods, whose recipes have not changed for generations.
While the Harvest Festival is only held once a year, the Indigenous people of Hualien have opportunities to participate year-round, inviting outsiders to have a glimpse into their lives. If you want an experience like this in Hualien and a chance to connect with the Amis community, check out the following links! Support the indigenous people of Hualien.
If you want to try some of the delicious food whose recipes have been prepared for generations by the Amis people, check out this cooking class! You can even try your hand at spearfish hunting, if you’d like!
At the Malasang Aboriginal Hunter School, you can learn survival skills with the Amis people! Learn how to shoot a bow and arrow and eat traditional food with the tribe! You can even try on real aboriginal clothes and fully engage in the experience!
My Organic Experience with Hualien’s Aboriginal People (Self-guided Day Tour w/ Map)
As I mentioned previously, the Huadong Valley is scattered with countless groups of Amis people and their many tribes.
To further explore the massive county of Hualien, I rented a motorbike and went on a self-guided day tour. I have attached the maps I used, with more than enough location ideas to stop at and explore! This comprehensive route was created by the lovely WORLD INN, a Taiwanese run-and-owned hostel in Hualien! With the route idea in mind, I first traveled south along the mountain route, then swung towards the sea and ended the day going back north along the coast.
MOUNTAIN ROUTE- Google Maps
COASTAL ROUTE- Google Maps
The first place I stopped while headed south on the mountain route was Liyu Lake. It was a sunny Sunday morning, so many families paddled around on swan boats and enjoyed the water.
Afterward, I continued south until I got to Lintianshan Forestry Culture Park. The park is a historic lodging farm and museum with many vintage tools and machinery. As I walked around on the foresty railway track walking path, I heard vague karaoke in the distance and decided to follow the sound.
While I can’t recommend following the sounds of karaoke in the woods, I did stumble across a homecoming indigenous celebration of the Cilo ‘Ohay tribe in Fenglin Township. Without hesitation, I was welcomed into the party despite accidentally inviting myself. It was the last day of the festival, so all the singing and dancing festivities had taken place the day before.
The Cilo ‘Ohay explained that they eat fish on the last day of their festival to close out the ceremonies. And sing karaoke in typical Taiwanese fashion. I sat down at a table and was served fish, pork sausage, rice, beer, and kaoliang vodka (It wasn’t announced until late into the celebration that tea was also available, not just alcohol).
And, of course, I volunteered to sing karaoke.
I was happily surprised by the kindness and hospitality of the Cilo ‘Ohay people, as they had welcomed me into their celebrations with smiles and open hands despite me being a foreign stranger. One of the tribesman’s girlfriends, Julia, who had studied previously in America and spoke perfect English, thoroughly explained everything that was happening during the ceremony, as well as the positions of leadership/hierarchy within the tribe- giving me a complete insider’s view into their unique lives as aboriginal people of Taiwan.
I appreciate the Cilo ‘Ohay people’s welcomingness and willingness to share their culture with me. While I can’t recommend crashing a festival for Indigenous people in Hualien, I do recommend respectfully getting involved within the local communities while you are here.
After saying thank you and leaving the Cilo ‘Ohay ceremony, I began to head back north along the coast towards my accommodation. Feeling exhausted from all the singing and fun at the party, I stopped along the road for a coffee. I seemingly stopped at a fish store but tried my luck for a coffee anyways. They said they did not have a coffee- but I was not out of good luck that day as I got a personal Taiwanese escort lead me to a nearby coffee shop.
Hidden on a secret sideroad on the ocean side of the road, I stopped at the most beautiful coffee shop I have been to in my entire life. Secret Coast Studio is a hidden gem with a unique natural crescent-shaped swing, and views of the mountains and sea. I ordered a delicious waffle and iced americano and enjoyed the romantic scenery until I needed to finish the drive home.
Reflections of My Experience
My journey with the indigenous people of Hualien has been a profound exploration of Taiwan’s heritage, leaving a mark on my understanding of culture and tradition. From the vibrant Amis Harvest Festival to the unexpected warmth of the Cilo ‘Ohay tribe’s homecoming celebration, I witnessed a beautiful blend of ancient tradition with modern life.
The resilience of these communities, facing the challenges of urbanization while preserving their unique identities, was truly inspiring. I was struck by generosity at every turn– from sharing meals to karaoke sessions – which spoke volumes about the open-hearted nature of these people. This experience has transformed my perspective on travel, revealing that beyond scenic landscapes, the true essence of a place resides in its people and their stories.
Reflecting on my time in Hualien, I’m filled with gratitude for the kindness shown to me and the wisdom shared. I leave with a renewed appreciation for cultural diversity and a sense of responsibility to support and celebrate Indigenous communities wherever I go. To future travelers, I urge you to seek out these experiences in Hualien. You’ll enrich your life- and contribute to keeping these unique cultures alive and thriving.
Experience the interdependence between the tribal ecological table and local agriculture. Depending on your time constraints, you can spend half a day, a full day, or two days with the Amis people in Taroko Gorge, partaking in their traditional activities and crafts.
Get to know the indigenous food and culture of the indigenous tribes of Hualien City by cooking with local Amis people! Use fresh ingredients from the traditional Amis garden and aboriginal farmer market, and chow-down on a mouth-watering meal.
Practical Tips
If you plan to visit any indigenous people of Hualien, please always be respectful of their culture and ways of life, as it may differ greatly than the norms in your home country. The people are kind to open their native and cultural activities to the public, so we must show them the same respect when visiting them.
Activities You Can Do with Indigenous People in Hualien!
More Information about Hualien
Craving more? Dive into the mouthwatering world of Hualien’s cuisine in my latest food adventure blog post!
Or, if you are looking for how to get to Hualien, or where to stay in Hualien, you can read more from my blog!
And finally, for the ultimate Hualien guide, I have a blog post to help you discover the REAL must-do activities to do in Hualien and more, as recommended by locals!
